Two Fantastic Days in Colonsay & Oronsay -

Tucked away off Scotland’s west coast, the Isle of Colonsay is a hidden gem bursting with natural beauty and the kind of charm that only remote island life can offer. We decided to make the most of a couple of days off from running tours and explore somewhere new. Though time was limited, we made the most of it with two unforgettable days on the island. It was just enough time to fall in love with the place and start planning our next visit

Getting There

We set off from Oban on the early morning Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, a scenic sailing of just over two hours. As foot passengers, our one-way fare was just £9.60—a small price for such a peaceful escape. We chose to travel without a car, as the island is only 10 miles long and 2 miles wide, and everything is easily reached on foot or by bike. That said, you can take a vehicle on the ferry if you prefer. While making the crossing there is the chance to spot dolphins and basking sharks- the journey is just another part of the adventure.

A Warm Welcome

From the harbour, it’s a short 10-minute walk up to The Colonsay Hotel, perched on the hillside with fantastic views across to Jura. Built in 1750, it’s a cosy retreat full of character—painted floorboards and wood-burning stoves. We booked one night here and were very happy with our cosy wee room.

We were incredibly lucky with the weather for our two day stay—sunshine and blue skies, the kind of springtime magic that makes even the sheep look like they’re smiling.

Day One: Oronsay Adventure

With the tide times in our favour, we set off to explore Oronsay, a tidal island linked to Colonsay by a natural causeway known as The Strand. The return walk to the priory ruins is about 5 miles, but it’s essential to plan carefully—you can only cross at low tide, and the water doesn’t fully disappear. Welly boots or water shoes are a must—trust me, those shallow channels with sneaky sharp shells don’t make for the best foot massage!

One of the most iconic sights on the island is watching the local postie crossing The Strand in his van to deliver mail to Oronsay—a reminder of how unique and resilient life is on the Scottish isles. As we visited on a Sunday, the postie had the day off, but we did spot another brave little van making the crossing at low tide—still a surreal and slightly nerve-wracking sight to witness!

Once across, we explored the ruins of Oronsay Priory. The priory dates back to the 14th century and the remains include a medieval church, cloisters, and several intricately carved gravestones. Founded by the Augustinians in the early 1300s, the priory became a significant religious centre for the islands and Argyll over the next two centuries. Dedicated to St Oran, it gave Oronsay considerable influence during the era when the Lordship of the Isles was a major political force in Scottish history.

The Priory is a remote and atmospheric place, where history seems to whisper through the ruins—transporting you to a time when Augustinian monks lived, prayed, and worked here. Especially magical when you have it all to yourself.

After spending more time than planned at the priory, we took a short walk to a nearby beach with the most stunning views out to Islay and Jura—the Paps of Jura rising in the distance.

We had hoped to continue on to Seal Cottage to try and spot the local seal colony, but with the tide on our minds and time slipping away, we decided to head back. We used walk highlands for this route and if you check out their webpage you can download the map to help with directions.

Back at the hotel that evening, we sat outside with a cold beer, gazing across to Jura as the sun dipped behind the hills. Dinner was a delicious two-course meal in the hotel restaurant— and we were more than ready for it after our long walk.

Day Two: Bikes, Beaches & Bunnies

We woke to a garden full of playful bunnies and a hearty breakfast in the conservatory. Then came a knock at the door—Jen from Colonsay Bikes and Boards had arrived with our hire bikes. At £20 each for the day, they were perfect for exploring the island.

We set off towards the golf course and the airstrip, stopping to enjoy the beach views. If you fancy a round of golf, the course runs on an honesty box system—£15 per round—and has been played on for over 200 years. Just a tip: your golf balls may end up in more rabbit holes than intended!

Cycling the single-track roads was a breeze—until we hit a full-blown Scottish traffic jam: a herd of sheep. We pulled over like polite Highlanders and let the woolly locals pass.

We eventually arrived at Kiloran Bay, a spectacular crescent of golden sand backed by grassy dunes. Seizing the moment, we took a brisk dip in the cold, refreshing waters—just the boost we needed to energise ourselves for the hike ahead. At the far end of the beach, we came across the remains of a fin whale that washed ashore in 2017.

We explored some of the many caves tucked into the surrounding cliffs. These can be explored carefully with a torch—and are well worth a peek. The cave to the left, known as Uamh Shiorruidh (or Uamh Heorredh), splits partway in, and the right-hand branch once contained a kitchen midden—evidence that humans lived here around 8,000 years ago.

From there, we hiked up Carnan Eoin, the highest point on the island at 143m, where we were rewarded with incredible panoramic views. We could see across the water to neighbouring isles, and below us—on a flat stretch of land near Port an Obain—was the striking outline of the Colonsay Whale Sculpture.

This fascinating land art piece is made entirely from beach stones, gathered from the raised beach and arranged into the shape of a giant whale. Created by artist Julian Meredith, the sculpture is ever-evolving, as visitors have added their own stones and help fill in any gaps.

Already Planning the Next Trip

Before heading home, we discovered the intriguing challenge of MacPhie Bagging—a trek to conquer all 22 summits over 91 metres across Colonsay/Oronsay in one continuous walk. Although we didn’t have time to do it on this visit, we’re already planning our return, hiking boots and map in hand.

After finishing our loop of the island, we dropped off the bikes, collected our bags, and spent our final hour browsing The Old Waiting Room Gallery, a peaceful little spot full of local art and crafts.

On the ferry back, we treated ourselves to the famous ‘CalMac and Cheese’—freshly prepared on board with rich Lockerbie cheddar and tangy Isle of Arran mustard cheddar, served up with crispy fries. We were definitely ready for it after our day of adventures.

The Bottom Line

Between ferry fares, hotel, bike hire, and a few delicious meals, we spent around £175 each—great value for two full days of adventure, fresh air, and unforgettable views.

Colonsay may be small, but it offers an escape that feels like slipping into a slower, more peaceful way of life—one that made us want to stay much longer. We left feeling refreshed, recharged, and already dreaming of our next visit.