We recently had the pleasure of spending a week in Bonar Bridge, a peaceful village that turned out to be the perfect base for exploring central and east Sutherland. This part of the Highlands feels wonderfully off the beaten track, ideal if you’re looking to escape the crowds and discover quieter, less touristy corners of Scotland.
Our cottage overlooked the Kyle of Sutherland, offering stunning views that changed with the light throughout the day, a real treat to wake up to and have our morning coffee while admiring the beautiful views. Here’s how we spent our time soaking up the beauty, history, and calm of this often overlooked area.
Day 1: Chasing Waterfalls and Salmon Leaps
One of our first outings was to the Falls of Shin, a well-known spot for salmon viewing. The visitor centre there is excellent. It’s modern, family-friendly, and complete with a café where we stopped for a relaxed lunch.
After eating, we took the short walk through the trees to the viewing platform overlooking the waterfall. If you visit between May and late October (with peak activity usually in July and August), you’ve got a good chance of seeing Atlantic salmon leaping upstream as they return to their spawning grounds. Their strength and determination is something else. We felt fortunate to see plenty of salmon making the jump!
From The Falls of Shin , we headed towards Rosehall to see Cassley Falls. We parked at the Rosehall Forestry Commission car park, where a peaceful forest trail begins. It’s a lovely, quiet walk (didn’t pass one person for the full two hour walk). The falls are dramatic, and if you’re lucky, you might spot salmon here too! We witnesses quite a few bold salmon making their way up the waterfalls. We used Walk Highlands for the route.
After two great walks and two spectacular waterfalls, we headed back to our cottage for a well-earned homemade meal. After dinner we took a gentle evening stroll through Bonar Bridge.
It’s a peaceful village with friendly people who stop and say hello. There is a particular lovely spot as you cross Bonar Bridge on the left hand side which has picnic benches with beautiful views.
Day 2: A Canoe Adventure on the River Cassley & Evening in Balblair Forest
Today was all about slowing down and soaking in the peace of the Highlands from the water. We had the absolute pleasure of exploring a remote stretch of the River Cassley by canoe. It ended up being one of the unexpected highlights of the whole trip.
Our guide for the day was Ian from Go Wild Highlands, and he couldn’t have been better. Warm, knowledgeable, and clearly passionate about both the local landscape and the wildlife that calls it home.
As we glided gently downstream, Ian pointed out birds, plant life, and interesting features along the riverbanks. The standout moment for us? An osprey soaring above us, scanning the river for fish. It was such a special sight. We also watched sand martins darting in and out of their nesting holes in the sandy banks. Witnessing these wee birds going about their business felt like something straight out of a nature documentary.
About halfway through, we pulled up on a sandy riverbank. Ian brought out flasks of coffee and the most delicious homemade lemon drizzle cake, freshly baked by his wife. It was such a thoughtful touch and made the whole experience feel even more personal.
• Duration: 3 hours
• Cost: £55 per person
• Suitable for beginners and a great way to see a quieter corner of the Highlands
Balblair Forest
After drying off and warming up back in Bonar Bridge in front of the wood burning fire, we headed out in the early evening for a walk in Balblair Forest The forest was peaceful and atmospheric in the soft light, with quiet trails winding through Scots pine and larch. It also has mountain bike trails through the forest and is a popular spot for biking enthusiasts.
There was an honesty shed at the entrance to the car park for Balblair Forest with fresh produce and handmade crafts. You can either pay in cash or by scanning the QR code.
Day 3: The Wee Hoose, Loch Shin & Carrisdsle Castle Walk
We started the day with a visit to the Highland village of Lairg, a peaceful spot that sits on the edge of Loch Shin. One of the quirkiest things to see there is the Wee Hoose on the Loch — a tiny stone house perched on a small island in the loch. No one lives there (except maybe some ducks!), but it’s become a much-loved local landmark and a bit of a photo favourite. It’s funny, unexpected, and definitely worth a stop. We decided to take it a step further by having a wee cold water dip at this iconic spot!
After a wander around the village, we had lunch at the Pier Café. It has friendly staff, good coffee, and great views over the water.
In the afternoon, we headed off for a walk around Carbisdale Castle. The trail offers some brilliant views of this privately owned castle and the surrounding forest. There’s a mix of peaceful woodland paths and glimpses of the River Shin below. It’s a lovely circular walk and a nice way to round off a relaxed day of exploring inland Sutherland.
Day 4: Exploring Dornoch: Coastlines, Cathedrals & Coco Delights in Sutherland
Day four was spent exploring the charming town of Dornoch, one of the prettiest spots on the east coast of Sutherland. Our morning started with a walk along the beach. The beach is wide and peaceful with open views across the Dornoch Firth.
Next, we wandered past the famous Royal Dornoch Golf Course, a world-renowned links course set right by the shore. Even if golf’s not your thing, it’s impressive to see.
In the town centre, we visited the lovely Dornoch Cathedral, which dates back to the 13th century. It’s full of atmosphere and local history. Just a short walk away, we also stopped by the Witch’s Stone. This stone marks the spot where the last known execution for witchcraft in Scotland took place.
One of the more surprising places we explored was the old town jail, now cleverly converted into a small collection of shops. It’s a great use of a historic building. Inside is bursting with goodies, from Highland gifts and clothing to books and homeware.
We rounded off the afternoon with a visit to Coco Mountain, where we picked up some handmade chocolates (and couldn’t resist a hot chocolate too).
Day 5: Woodland Walks, Wild Swims & a Wee Dram
We started the day with a peaceful lochside walk at Loch Migdale, just outside Bonar Bridge. This circular route takes around two hours and winds through the beautiful Ledmore and Migdale woodlands. The trail offers lovely views of the loch and the surrounding hills. The trail is well maintained and mostly flat, making it a relaxing but rewarding walk.
One of the highlights was reaching the red squirrel release site, where there’s a beautifully carved wooden bench, the perfect spot to pause and (quietly!) watch the trees. Sure enough, we spotted a few red squirrels darting about. We were also lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one of Scotland’s rarer creatures on this walk, a little weasel, also known as the world’s smallest carnivore! It dashed across the path before disappearing into the undergrowth, but we were thrilled to see it.
We had heard from locals that Loch Migdale was a great spot for a swim, and after our walk, we couldn’t resist. The water was so refreshing. The perfect way to cool off and take in the stillness of the surroundings.
After heading back to the cottage for lunch and a quick freshen up, we drove to the nearby Glenmorangie Distillery for their Classic Tour (£25). The distillery is beautifully set overlooking the Dornoch Firth. The tour was both informative and enjoyable with a tasting at the end, of course!
Day 6: Exploring Portmahomack’s Coastal Beauty and the Mermaid of the North
On our sixth day based in Bonar Bridge, we headed east again to the charming village of Portmahomack and took on the fantastic Tarbat Ness Circuit walk. This coastal route is about 4 hours long and offers a perfect mix of stunning beaches, wildlife spotting, and some fascinating local history.
The walk hugs the coastline around Tarbat Ness, where we enjoyed spectacular views of the sea and spotted seabirds and seals along the way. The Tarbat Ness Lighthouse is another standout on the walk, standing tall as a beacon over the Moray Firth and Dornoch Firth.
After completing the walk, we drove over to the nearby village of Balintore to visit the famous Mermaid of the North. This beautiful bronze sculpture sits on a rock by the shore and is part of the local folklore about a mermaid who once lived in these waters. The sculpture’s tail disappears beneath the waves at high tide, creating a magical, ever-changing sight.
Not far from Balintore is Shandwick Bay, another stunning beach with wide sands backed by dunes. It was the perfect peaceful spot to end the day. We walked along the shoreline and enjoyed a hot drink with a hairy coo cupcake from the local shop!
Day 7: Ben Bhraggie & Big Burn Gorge
We set off to Golspie to hike Ben Bhraggie, the hill topped by the striking (and controversial) statue known as The Mannie, a towering monument to the 1st Duke of Sutherland, tied to the history of the Highland Clearances. The views from the top are incredible, stretching over the Dornoch Firth, the Sutherland coast, and even to Caithness on a clear day.
The path up passes through pine woods before opening onto open moorland. It’s a steady climb but well worth the effort.
On the way back down, we explored Big Burn Gorge, a complete contrast to the open hill. This magical little woodland is full of ferns, tumbling waterfalls, and wooden bridges that follow the burn through a steep, mossy ravine. Peaceful, shady, and full of character, it’s a real hidden gem.
Final Thoughts: A Week in Sutherland, exploring the Hidden Highlands
Our week based in Bonar Bridge turned out to be the perfect way to explore the quiet beauty of central and east Sutherland, a part of the Highlands that’s often overlooked but full of unspoiled nature. From chasing waterfalls and padding remote rivers to hiking hilltops, swimming in lochs, and wandering coastal villages, each day offered something different.
What we loved most was the sense of space and stillness, no crowds, no rush, just time to slow down and enjoy the landscape at our own pace. Whether you’re into outdoor adventures, wildlife spotting, or simply soaking up the views, this hidden corner of the Highlands has so much to offer.
We offer tours all over the Highlands of Scotland, including lessor known gems like Sutherland in the North. Please contact us if you are interested in a private tour. Let’s go on an adventure together!
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